Self-tanners: tips for use and recommended products

This cosmetic can be more or less permanent, depending on its composition and its mode of action.

Although we have all heard of self-tanners, there are many doubts about how to use them, how they look, if they last or not, if they stain, or protect the skin… In this article I will try to clarify these doubts and recommend the most natural and easy to apply.

WHAT IS A SELF TAN?

It is a cosmetic that when applied to the skin provides the tone of a natural tan for a while. Self-tanners can be more or less permanent, depending on their composition and mode of action. Some are removed directly with soap and water. In a way they are dyes or makeup for the skin, and they last a day.

And those that are more durable and are not removed so easily, due to their DHA composition, provide more permanent color to the skin and we can find them very varied. DHA, dihydroxyacetone or glycerone, is a carbohydrate, which is obtained naturally from beets or sugar cane. It can also be obtained synthetically by oxidation of glycerol.

Around 1920, German scientists observed that when irradiated with X-rays the skin on which DHA had been applied tanned. Although the first self-tanning cosmetics appeared around 1960 when Coppertone released QT ( quick tan ) , up to now these cosmetics have evolved a lot.

The action of DHA is a chemical reaction in which this substance reacts with the keratin layers of the cells of the stratum corneum of the skin (the outermost cells of the skin). The keratin of the skin is made up of proteins, and these proteins in turn are made up of amino acids.

DHA reacts with these amino acids to form dark pigments that give the skin a tanned tone. Thus, particles called melanoidins, similar to melanin, are formed. However, UV exposure is not necessary for this chemical reaction.

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There is another component called erythrulose that is also part of the composition of self-tanners. Erythrulose is another saccharide with a ketone group just like DHA.

HOW LONG DOES IT LAST?

DHA takes 45 minutes to react on the skin. From that moment, the full effect is found after two hours of use. It is the drying time and skin reaction. However, you should not shower or wash for at least 4 hours.

The DHA reacts with the outermost cells of the skin, these cells are the ones that are continuously renewed every 3 to 10 days, which is why this will be the time that a self-tan will last unless it is exfoliated before. As the cells are progressively renewed , the self-tan is also lost at the same rate. The renewal time of the cells are the ones that will determine the need to renew the product .

I recommend applying the self-tanner again every three days and if you want it to last longer, the key is to hydrate the skin a lot. With this we will be able to reduce the rate of natural flaking of the skin. That is, the cells stay hydrated for longer.

The skin is completely renewed every 35 to 40 days and this is the time it will take for the product to be completely lost if it is not removed in some other way before. The current self -tanners do not leave the color as orange as the old ones, it is a good option to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun.

WHAT TYPES ARE THERE?

There are many different types of self-tanners, depending on the type of composition, and the concentration of these products that usually ranges from 1 to 15%, although the most common is 3 to 5%. Those that contain, in addition to DHA, contain erythrulose. The tanning process is slower or faster.

Depending on the mode of application:

in spray

They can be used at home, with the product already prepared in a bottle under pressure, or in professional booths where a product diffuser is used. They are quick and comfortable to use since the product dries very quickly , it is liquid so you can get dressed right away without losing the effect of the product on your clothes and it is not necessary to wear gloves.

Although the downside is that it dries the skin somewhat , it is important that it is well hydrated before applying it. If a very dark tan is desired, it will have to be applied more than once.

in foam

Like the spray, it is easy to apply, although it is necessary to wear gloves for it. The advantage like the spray is that it also dries very quickly , however it does not dry out the skin as much since it does not usually contain alcohol in its composition. The effect is between lotion or cream and spray.

In lotion, cream or gel

This is perhaps the most cumbersome product to apply and the one that you will have to wait the longest for to dry before getting dressed. However, since it is applied as a cream or lotion, it will also contain moisturizing active ingredients that will allow the self-tanner to remain in contact with the skin for longer. It is the one that gives the most intense and permanent color.

It is important not to apply it without gloves since in the same way that it will tan the skin where it is applied, it will also tan the palms of the hands and in a more permanent way.

On a stick

The stick is also a cream that contains wax, as if it were lipstick.

In oil

It is applied directly and has the advantage that it has an immediate flash effect, as well as slightly tanning. Although if you are looking for a more permanent tan I do not usually advise it. This product is more suitable for areas that are not dressed, such as the neckline, legs or arms , since it takes a long time to dry and it is very likely that it will stain clothes.

in wipes

Both the sticks and the wipes are applied to the wipes soaked in the liquid product, I prefer to advise this product as an emergency method, like the spray or the liquids, it contains some alcohol so it will also dry the skin somewhat. It is equally very important to hydrate the skin.

Depending on the speed of action and permanence

Immediate bronzers

These products do not contain DHA itself or contain a small amount. This type of product is limited to one day’s action until the skin is washed off. It is like long-lasting makeup or dye. They are removed with soap and water. They usually carry carotenes, canthaxanthins and other types of dark dyes.

We can find them in the same form as the previous ones and also in powder form.

Gradual Self Tanners

These products contain very little amount of self-tanner , so it is necessary to apply it more often, this way the tone goes up , but it also lasts longer. It is ideal on the face, since this is how we get the tone that we like the most and in spring when we do not want a more discreet tone and not so tanned-beach. Also for white skin.

Self-tanners

The classic self-tanners that we will apply every three or five days can be found in all the different forms that I have explained above.

Tan extenders

Many of these products contain, in addition to highly nourishing and moisturizing active substances for the skin , a slight amount of self-tanner, with this we maintain the tan for longer.

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HOW DOES IT APPLY?

We have seen that the self-tanner binds to the outermost cells. In order for the self-tanner to last longer, the ideal is that before applying it we eliminate the cells that are already about to come off, so it is advisable to exfoliate the skin.

It is very important to insist on areas that naturally have more dead cells or drier areas, such as knees and elbows.

Later we are going to keep the skin hydrated , with this we will also achieve a more lasting effect since these cells that we are going to “dye” will remain longer in this layer of skin.

Finally, it is almost mandatory to use gloves to apply the self-tanner, if we are going to use it at home and in another way different from the spray, since if we are going to apply it all over the body, the palms of the hands are the ones that spend the longest time. to have the product applied and naturally this area does not tan so the brown palms of the hands will give us away and look very fake.

Once we have exfoliated and hydrated the skin correctly and with completely dry skin, we can begin to apply the product. Some self-tanners are easier to apply than others because they are colored so you can see where it has been applied or not, unlike the colorless ones.

In the body

It is important not to leave areas without applying product since where we do not put it, it will remain without a tan. That is why the ideal is to always follow the same routine from bottom to top: starting with one leg and then the other. Then the torso, back and, finally, shoulders, neckline and down to the arm. You have to pay attention when we are applying the product to the feet and ankles, since it is easy for us to leave a line.

My advice is to apply on the leg and without pressing too much and spread it towards the foot irregularly, without pressing , you can use a towel mitt, cloth or soft brush (which will only be used for this).

Personally, I prefer the foot to look a little less brown, that it looks striped between the toes or on the ankles. On the knees it is also necessary to apply it conscientiously and remove excess with the same cloth.

When we get to the arms, the same thing happens in the wrists and hands as with the feet, plus we have the gloves on, as we have left it for last, we can take off a glove and gently distribute the product down the wrist to the hand, without pressing so that the effect appears more diffuse.

It is important not to dress until the product is completely dry.

A trick that I usually advise is to apply it at night before going to bed and sleep in somewhat dark pajamas. So the next morning after a shower, in which the excess is removed, the tan will be perfect. And it is only necessary to hydrate the skin a lot , you can use a product like body butter.

If we are going to apply it in a spray, it must be done quickly enough so as not to put more product in one place than in another, and at the necessary distance to correctly distribute the product. It really is just a matter of a little practice.

Face

It is also important not to leave areas without product, since this is where a white spot will remain, and to be homogeneous so that one area is not darker than another.

We will start, just like the body, with a good cleansing of the skin and a deep exfoliation , both with a scrub or even a cleansing brush.

The areas in which we must pay special attention are the hairline, eyebrows and nose wings , where there is usually a greater amount of dead cells and it is easier for more product to accumulate, leaving a darker halo that will not look good, to avoid it, we can apply the product avoiding these areas, and then, carefully, as we have done on the feet and hands, spread it. You can also apply more moisturizing cream, with this we will prevent the self-tanner from accumulating.

It is preferable not to apply makeup if you have applied self-tanneror at least four hours and have washed your face. Although you can put powders, like a blush.

It is essential to keep your tan beautiful and for a longer time, to moisturize daily with a cream that is creamy enough or an oil.

DO THEY STAIN? WHAT ABOUT THE SMELL?

The spots on the skin only appear when the product has been applied incorrectly , when we have left unapplied areas or when we have put more product in one area than in another.

Therefore, in itself, spots or stripes will not appear.

When the product is removed and is not applied again, smears or traces that are darker than others may appear, so it is preferable to remove them with a scrub-type exfoliator, by dragging away the dead cells, the stained ones will also go away.

On clothing , from the moment it has been applied and while it remains until the first time we shower , stains are likely to appear, so it is preferable to wear dark and not very tight clothing. Subsequently it does not stain, although as the dead cells gradually fall off they can leave a slight trace, but just like that left by a natural tan.

About the smell: some brands have managed to eliminate the particular smell that DHA oxidation has. It fades as it takes more days to apply. Some leave more trace than others.

HOW TO DELETE THEM?

If it is a product for immediate use, it will be enough to wash with soap and water.

If it’s a self- tanner, you need to exfoliate your skin to remove it.

If we have stained ourselves when applying it, it is preferable to clean the skin as soon as possible, we must avoid having the product applied for as long as possible.

Hands must be washed carefully after application and if necessary use a brush.

WHICH TO BUY?

Many times we want a self-tan and we don’t know which one to opt for.

My advice is that, if the skin is fair, it is preferable to buy a gradual or mix the lotion with a moisturizing cream to reduce the tone that will result.

It is preferable to apply it twice than once and it looks bad or artificial.

If we have dark skin (perhaps it is easier), any will suit us. However, if we are experts, the lotion will be more economical.

The spray is faster but less intense , we need more applications, therefore, it is one of the useful products for subsequent applications or to maintain the color.

The foam is very easy to apply , so I recommend it when you are inexperienced.

I recommend the wipes only on legs and emergency areas, such as when we want to remove our stockings when wearing a skirt.

DO THEY PROTECT FROM THE SUN?

Although they tan us, they do not protect us from the sun, on the contrary, it is preferable not to sunbathe during the first 24 hours, since some studies indicate that the skin is more sensitive during that time.

If we are going to sunbathe and we are wearing a self-tanner, do not forget to apply a sunscreen since the color is not the result of the natural protection of melanin, but a much more external effect and we can still burn.

PRECAUTIONS

It can cause contact dermatitis. If it has never been used, it is preferable to apply a small amount to an inconspicuous area and wait for a skin reaction after 24 hours.

Avoid contact with the eyes, mouth or mucous membranes.

The sprays can be inhaled causing asthma.

Allergy to the product itself, or to the perfumes that contain it.

OTHER EFFECTIVE PRODUCTS

• Tanning accelerators
• Products containing tyrosine. This amino acid stimulates the formation of melanin, which promotes tanning.
• The carotenes. It is also applied both to self-tanners and to tanning stimulators.
• Athletes who compete in bodybuilding often use very dark tints and then heavily hydrate their skin to make it look bright and hydrated.

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